Day One: Pamplona

Pamplona on a Sunday was as quiet and subdued as I remember Madrid being, back in 1991 when I was first there. I confess, it did not win me over but jet lag and nerves probably meant I was not bringing my best either. And maybe I am just grumpy that I could not see the Nunilo and Alodia casket because the museum was shut. I’ll just say that there are some places in Spain that make me remember Spain was fascist really recently.

I did have yummy mint chip ice cream for dinner and in the cathedral I saw two beautiful alabaster royal tombs. And a marble plaque suggesting Anne of Cleves was also “Prince of Viana”??!!?? And that she was buried under the slab with a whole crew of Navarrese kings??!! Really? Cool, if true.

I love this statue. It’s the monument to the fueros to which the Navarrese attribute their rights and independence, put up in 1903. Yeah, there were some very reactionary consequences for their attachments but when will you ever see a statue that celebrates a charter? It’s what she holds in her hand and it even has a seal.

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